 |
| (Bitkov, 2013.) |
I originally chose the makeup look above to portray the lasting effects of discrimination, with black smudged marks to mirror the accumulated emotional bruising; however I want this look to be the most striking and shocking in the film as I want it to connect emotionally with the viewers to show how damaging discrimination can be. She's first look will convey how she feels trapped and tortured by society's discrimination, causing her to admit herself to a mental asylum in her own mind.
 |
Image 1
(Perring, 2015.)
|
 |
Image 2
(Knight, 2017.)
|
After researching makeup inspiration from films, catwalk shows, editorials and original asylum imagery I narrowed them down to design my proposed final makeup look. I was initially inspired by the mentally ill patient shown in Image 1 as he looks so disturbed, confused and tortured, being held captive in the restricting neck and head brace like a caged animal. This idea of restricting head devices led me to find Image 2 of Stella Lucia for the SS15 issue of AnOther, directed by Nick Knight. The model's face has been forced into an uncomfortable, distorted position. The sharp metal spears are dangerously close to her eyes, holding her face captive, mirroring She's mental imprisonment and the constant strain caused by society's discrimination, controlling her every move and freedom of speech. I found this image extremely shocking as it injects fear into the viewer; an aspect I want to adopt in She first look.
 |
Image 3
(Rawsthorn, 2007.)
|
Another inspiring image (Image 3) by Nick Knight, with a shock element, is his take on Devon Aoki in Alexander McQueen for Visionaire (1997). This striking look is accentuated by the bright blanked out eye contrasting with the dark surroundings as it looks so unnatural, but also suggests a previous trauma, mirroring She's haunting memories of her torturous discrimination. The white out could also suggest her blindness and loss of hope for a happier and more carefree life. The rosy cheeks give a healthy, youthful glow, whereas to mirror She's drained and depressed state only cool grey tones will be added to the cheeks to emphasise her gaunt features. The shock element is the X-shape displayed on her forehead, held by a safety pin pierced through the skin. In reality this would be extremely painful and uncomfortable; however the model looks calm and composed, mirroring She's increasing numbness and acceptance of her discriminatory fate.
 |
Image 4
(JeauThomas, 2017.) |
The combination of the asylum patient's head brace and the distorting of the face reminded me of a horse's bridal, specifically 'the bit' which is a metal bar fixed inside the horse's mouth and attached to the reins. This equipment allows the rider to control the horse's movement, mirroring how victims feel controlled and captured by society's expectations and criticisms. It looks painful as the rider pulls at the horse's mouth to force their instructions, reflecting She's torment.
She's Face Charts
I combined the research shown above to create these striking looks with the shock element of a metal cross bar distorting the model's mouth. I have included two face charts because I am undecided whether to add a black strap to force open her mouth; I will experiment with both on the model before I choose my final design. The black straps will add a striking, restricting element; however I am concerned how it will be fitted to the mouth and if it will look too provocative. I was originally going to give my model dark burgundy lips to emphasise the shape of the mouth piece; however I think this will look too glamorous whereas I want the model to look pained and mistreated. I will experiment with dabbing some concealer over the lips to mute their colour and then adding powder on top to give them a dry, flakey look. As explained above, the face will be contoured with a grey toned bronzer to give a sunken in, ill look. The eye brows will be brushed up and set with gel but not filled in to complement the sharp edges of the mouthpiece and hair accessories, but without giving the face definition. I researched tired, sad eyes and found they looked heavy, with dark eye bags and drooping eye lids. I will contour the eye bags to emphasise their darkness and circle the eyes with red cream eyeshadow to give a swollen effect.
References:
BITKOV, F., 2013. (Untitled) [viewed 2nd February 2017]. Available from: http://habitualbliss.tumblr.com/post/31751811864/fedor-bitkov
PERRING, R., 2015. PICTURED: Harrowing portraits taken at a Victorian 'lunatic' asylum of disturbed patients [viewed 2nd February 2017]. Available from: http://www.express.co.uk/news/history/564921/Asylum-Victorian-mentally-ill-patients-Yorkshire-West-Riding-Pauper-Lunatic
KNIGHT, N., 2017. McQueen: The London Years [viewed 2nd February 2017]. Available from: http://showstudio.com/project/mcqueen_the_london_years/editorial_gallery
RAWSTHORN, A., 2007. Vision Quest [viewed 2nd February 2017]. Available from: http://www.nytimes.com/2007/04/15/style/tmagazine/15tquest.html
JEAUTHOMAS, 2017. Horsemanship [viewed 2nd February 2017]. Available from: http://s259.photobucket.com/user/jeauthomas/media/Horsemanship/DSC_0031_zpsc97b5456.jpg.html
No comments:
Post a Comment