Friday, 24 March 2017

Final Fitting and Adjustments with Zhane

Development image of top.
Development image of skirt.

Due to Zhane's other work commitments and the amount of time needed to create the cage dress, she was unable to complete this outfit until the evening before filming. This did cause me some concern, as, although I had seen the work in progress and was happy with how it was being created, I was worried there would not be enough time to make any final adjustments that might be needed after the final fitting. I was also aware that my team had a very early start for filming the next day and did not want to keep them up late, as I wanted everybody to be in good humour and eager to start filming in the morning. I had given all my team deadlines for their contributions, but this was a good example to me of having to compromise with people I work with, as I had to compromise with Zhane to agree a deadline which was acceptable, and achievable, for both of us.

It was very exciting to see Zhane's development images; however I was nervous to receive the styling because I had to make so many adjustments to the previous styling I had received from Sofie to improve not only its fit, but the quality. I had also not seen the progress of the dress in person, so leaving it until the evening before to see the dress was risk. I was really pleased with the dress when I collected it from Zhane and felt she had worked accurately to the brief. The quality of the styling was high, with discreet stitching, heavy fabric and precise lines.



When we had the final fitting, the main problem was that the top with a little too big for my model, Natalie. She was wearing the outfit without a bra, so needed to feel comfortable the straps across her bust area would stay in place and needed to feel secure. We therefore pinned up the top while she was wearing it, folding under small sections of the vertical straps where they met the horizon straps, so gradually tightening the top on Natalie in a way that could be sewn discreetly yet securely. Unfortunately, this involved a large of number of small adjustments for me to make, which was very time consuming at this late stage, but it was important for Natalie to feel confident in the outfit. Additionally, we decided to use double-sided tape to secure the straps across her bust to make sure she was confident she could move in the outfit without worrying she would be exposed.

I was very pleased with the look and fit of the skirt because it was a flattering length and wrapped round her waist with a small gap at the front. I had a variety of cream and white belts ready to choose from and was able to select a white one which was a good match for the skirt colour, the correct width for the belt loops and fitted Natalie well. I did not need to make any adjustments to the skirt which I was relieved about as the top was going to be very time consuming. 

I had two options prepared for Natalie's underwear; white leather pants, which were also to be used with her final outfit, the white leather jacket, or high waisted nude support pants. I thought the white pants drew focus away from the dress and lost the caging effect of the skirt around the hips and waist area, as the white of the pants and the skirt blurred into one solid white area. However, the nude worked well as the white cage could clearly be seen all over her body and the character's confidence in appearing to be nude under her broken cage reflected her rebellious and daring character as she found confidence in appearing as her own unique self.

I was able to make the final adjustments in the evening before the shoot and I was confident it would fit the model well, so that she looked and felt comfortable. I then hung the finished outfit with the other costumes on the styling rail, ready for filming the following day.

Planning the Logistics of Shoot 1

Location

When I originally planned to use powder paint in the final scene I was aware that I couldn't film it in a studio but I still wanted the plain black back drop. I therefore cleared out a space in my lounge and bought two 3mX6m black studio back drops to hang all round the walls. I then used the excess black dance flooring from my existing dance studio to lay on the floor for a seamless black studio set up. The dance flooring was slightly sprung, making it safer for the dancer to dance freely. The back drop looked very creased when it arrived so I steamed the whole thing for a smoother look; however when I experimented with test shoots the creasing wasn't an issue as I directed the lights across my models instead of on the back drop. When I decided I was no longer using powder paint or beauty products I would not have been able to use the studio anyway because the studios were currently closed on a weekend.

Photography Studio
Photography Studio
Filming Date

I had originally planned for a day long shoot to take place on 25th March, from 9am-6pm; however one of my models told me a week before the shoot that she couldn't do that afternoon anymore. This was a problem because my dancer lives in London and had booked this day out of her busy schedule far in advance. I considered filming the separately; however after discussing the importance of the dancer and model having contact and dancing in sync, this was not an option. I was frustrated that my model had told me at such late notice because my dancer was traveling from London especially and I had so many other aspects of the film to be worrying about, for example, the changed styling and choreography. After checking with the rest of my team, I decided it would be best to start early on Saturday morning and finish at lunch time when the model needs to leave to make sure everyone was available and we had enough hours to film. I created the call sheet below with contact details and an itinerary to make sure everyone was clear on the day's schedule.


Set Up and Food

The studio was already set up from the test shoots I had done that week, but I cleaned it so it was ready to use in the morning. I hung up all the styling in sections for each model and designated my room as the changing area. I laid out all the makeup for each model so it was easily accessible, with chairs facing natural lighting for my models to get their hair and makeup done. I hung a black sheet on a wall and positioned a camera and tripod in front of it so I could take images of each models makeup and styling before going on set. I charged the cameras for behind the scenes and makeup shots and cleared both SD cards.

I provided all my crew and models with bottled water to make sure nothing spilt over any equipment or materials. I also provided them with sandwiches, fruit and crisps in the lunch break to keep their energy levels up. They were all very appreciative that I bought them all lunch.

Transport

As the shoot was starting so early on Saturday morning and the location was an hours drive from Southampton I decided to drive my model to my house on Friday evening for a final fitting and so I could start her makeup as soon as we woke up. My dancer lived locally to my house so she drove herself. My mum and dad were my assistants so they were already at my house. I asked my film guy, Harrison, to come back Friday night but he was busy then, so he caught the train from Southampton to Basingstoke and then my dad picked him up to drive him to my house for 7am. After the shoot was finished my dad drove Harrison back to Southampton and my two models drove home together as they live near mine. I organised all the travel beforehand so everyone arrived on time as I was nervous that if people arrived late we would not get enough time to shoot. I reimbursed their travel expenses.

Focus Group to Discuss my Styling/Makeup/Hair Choices

Having developed my designs, I carried out a focus group to determine whether people in my target audience understood and could interpret them. For example, I was feeling unsure about the design in the second question as I was concerned it did not portray the emotion I had hoped as, after speaking with Sebastiane, he suggested the bed could have unintended sexual connotations.

I gathered a group of people within my target audience, some of whom had experienced discrimination themselves. The participants were from a variety of backgrounds, with varying religious beliefs, sexual preferences and heritages. I displayed each question to them with no explanation, so every interpretation was unbiased and honest. The photos elicited some interesting discussions and views, which are summarised below.

1.
"I think the concept that the hair design is portraying is caged and gagged. The woman does not have a voice or an identity. She can see but her ears are also covered in an attempt to limit her." 

"Imprisonment."

"I think it would be portraying someone who feels trapped."

"Spider’s web, as if she’s been caught, making her a victim."

"Entrapment."

"Trapped, caged, imprisoned person."

"Shy, wants their face to be hidden."

"If I saw that hairstyle it would give me the impression the girl was trapped because the hair looks like it represents a cage. I would also think of them as possibly being a Goth, because the hairstyle looks very dark and somewhat evil."

"Entrapment. The style of the hairstyle represents a caged life."

I was particularly pleased with the interpretation of this design, because the overall feedback was of entrapment and imprisonment, which was exactly the concept I had intended. New aspect of this hairstyle that arose were that it covered her ears and mouth, which I had not necessarily intended; however it was interesting to hear that people interpreted that the model was being even more physically limited by reducing her ability to hear and speak. The spiders web interpretation was unexpected. However, I can understand why you could interpret all the strips of hair as a web and, as a web is used by spiders to capture its prey, this is still evoking feelings of capture and entrapment, and works to develop my concept. Additionally, the interpretation that She is shy and trying to hide herself away, also works as an interpretation and would raise the question why she feels the need to hide and why she is not feeling accepted. 



2.

"The feelings evoked are of darkness and despair, echoed by the shadows behind her and shadows across the bed which stretch across like bars. Half her face in in darkness and half in light which indicates hope of perhaps escape from her restricted life. I think she is in a situation that she is not comfortable with and wishes to leave." 

"Despair or depression."

"I think from the dark clothes she feels depressed, but the white colour of the bed signifies hope. However because it’s broken, maybe her hope is breaking, so she’s in a situation of losing hope."

"Raped."

"Bondage and entrapment."

"Trapped but maybe portraying a mental health condition like depression, she feels trapped by it."

"Trapped but angry (maybe mental illness), can’t escape the feeling and frustration of feeling so trapped."

"The feeling I get when I see these photos is I feel free, because she is clearly ill and from a dark background, probably depressed. I get the impression of exorcism because of the way she is crumpled up and the bed is broken."

"Vulnerability and entrapment."

Overall, the comments were that the images portrayed depression, entrapment and despair, which is what I had intended for this opening scene. However, I was concerned that some participants used words such as 'raped' and 'bondage', bringing a sexual element to the image. This had been a concern brought up by Sebastiane and was clearly being translated to my target audience. I definitely do not want this element to be present, because I think some viewers will find it very distracting from the intended concept. I will therefore re-evaluate the styling and positioning of the model to ensure the depressed and entrapment elements are still present, but without the sexual connotations. It was interesting how many participants mentioned mental health because I had expected to have to add slow movement and haunting sound effects to develop She's entrapment and it turning into depression and therefore a mental health problem. This interpretation could be a result of the prominence currently given to the subject in the media and receiving support from the younger generation of The Royal Family.

3.

"I think the character is experiencing abuse (evident in the closed eye). I think the character is female but not evident from hair, makeup etc. The anguish is evident. Pent up emotions unable to be expressed." 

"Rejection, she has an inability to speak, as if she has been rejected and left out, has no voice."

"I think the emotional/mental state would be someone who can’t express their feeling, like they have an inability to speak, and I think the red eyes shows how frustrated and angry they are."

"Savage."

"She looks like she is in pain and agony, like she is screaming."

"Probably some kind of physical issue had injured her, vulnerable and in able to talk about it."

"Not able to speak their mind, having their views suppressed or silenced. Maybe battling a life change secret?" 

"Punishment or torture. This character looks like she would be feeling lots of pain but also feels lots of hate and anger."

"Pain and silenced. De-humanised."

"Is her mouth being forced open?"

My main concern when reviewing the participants' interpretations was the inference of physical harm. Many participants interpreted that the character had been physically abused, specifically because using a contact lens made her look blind in one eye. I had initially intended to use a contact lens in every scene as a constant to show that the hatred and mental pain of discrimination was always with the victim and never left her. However, I think the use of a white contact lens looks too dominant and portrays physical harm rather than mental harm. I will therefore remove the contact lens from this makeup look and consider removing them from the character's other looks as I think they pull too much focus and will limit the character's diverse looks, reflecting her different mental states.  

One participant felt She was 'de-humanised'. This took the interpretation further than I had intended, but if She is being ostracised by her fellow humans, this would lead to her feeling she does not belong in their society and is not being treated equally as a fellow human being. 

Overall the comments clearly expressed the character's inability to voice her views and opinions, shown through the restrictive mouth piece, a black cross, also a symbol of negativity; I was pleased that the majority of participants interpreted the styling as I had intended and that my portrayal of She's emotional pain, rejection and inability to speak out, and behave, as her true self was clear to the audience.


4. 

"I believe the character feels freer being able to write and express herself. There is plenty of blank paper for expression. There is restriction evident with the darkness behind her and something sinister lurking in the background of the second picture. A reminder of something still in her past?"

"Oppressed. Haunted."

"I think she feels oppressed, like she has to do something because she has someone watching over her shoulder, but the fact her hair is covering her face, it shows she can’t do anything about it, she has no choice."

"Dark and haunting, oppression." 

"Trapped in a job, like she is a robot of the industry."

"Stressed/anxious, feeling trapped and constantly watched over, can’t breathe, judged."

"I think she is feeling very trapped. She looks as if she has got to be very cautious because there is a dark figure looking over her."

"Helpless and controlled."

This was another styling I was particularly pleased with, as all the participants mentioned elements of being trapped, oppressed or controlled, all feelings I had hoped to portray in this scene. I was concerned, after speaking with Sebastiane, that my target audience would not recognise the black styling as a figure. However, the feedback of being controlled and watched over clarified to me that the black haunting figure was being recognised as authoritative and intimidating. I also understood Sebastiane's point of view, where he suggested the authoritative figure should be more humanised, and therefore I will combine a more obvious human styling with this phantom figure to create an overall feeling of being controlled by not just one person, but by society as a whole.

One comment that did concern me was "I believe the character feels freer being able to write and express herself" because I wanted the audience to continue to feel the character's entrapment at this stage in the film. I can understand this participant's interpretation when seeing these images in isolation and not in the context of the film, because She has been given an opportunity with pen and paper to express herself through art. However, I think when this scene is viewed in conjunction with the more restrictive hair styling (photos in 1 above) and the accompanying chaotic soundtrack, it will be evident that the model does not feel comfortable enough to express herself on paper. There will be a number of restricted, repetitive movements, with very little actually being drawn on the paper, portraying her ability to express herself as the paper remains blank.

5. 

"The character in the dress is clearly feminine and beautiful. She appears open about her feelings and her freedom and ‘bares all’ confidently. Nothing is hidden and she is relaxed about this as is evident in her relaxed hands and her feet apart stance. Virginal white perhaps represents her purity of being and innocence. She is fearless." 

"I think their state of mind is all over the place, their thoughts are broken up."

"Broken cage."

"Light and carefree, freedom of movement."

"Daring and rebellious."

"Bound, restricted."


"Confident and open."

"Caged and broken."

This was the feedback that gave me the most concern, because only half the participants were able to interpret the styling as I had intended. Aspects of breaking of a cage, confidence and freedom were mentioned, which supported my styling concept of her having the confidence and strength to break free from the restrictions of society's discrimination. A couple of participants interpreted the design as portraying her 'mind is all over the place' and she is 'caged and broken', which concerned me as the character's state of mind at this point is composed, confident and strong. This emphasised to me the importance of the makeup and hair styling for the model in this scene, together with her posture and attitude, to portray her new found confidence. This is therefore something I will pay particular attention to and I am confident that I can portray this emotion when the complete styling is seen in context.


All the photos were shown to the participants totally out of context and with no background information on the purpose or content of the film. I was therefore really pleased that the majority of interpretations were what I had originally intended, and found unexpected interpretations very informative and enlightening, helping me to develop my ideas further than initially intended. I need to make sure I transfer these designs into my film carefully complemented by appropriate surroundings, including lighting, sound and model movement, to ensure this interpretation continues, and is possibly developed further, within the context of Ostracised.

I found this focus group extremely rewarding, because all the participants engaged fully with the exercise and interpreted my work in ways I had hoped, but also in ways I had not thought of myself. I deliberately did not make the looks obvious, as part of the concept for my film is that it forces the audience to ask questions of themselves and make their own interpretation on She's circumstances - why she is feeling a victim, what sort of discrimination she might be suffering, etc. I look forward to adapting designs that were not as well received and to then conducting a final focus group once my film is complete.

Further Test Shoots for Final Scene (Sebastiane and Sharon's feedback)

Test Shoot 3

(Taleski, 2013).

I looked at Pina Bausch for inspiration as Sebastiane mentioned he liked her avant-garde style, focused on emotion. Her choreography is not conventional, but instead uses simple movement or combinations of movement to evoke a feeling or tell a story. Pina Bausch's work linked below is called The Fall Dance. It shows a woman, who looks like she's in a trance, wondering around trying to escape the man who is following her every move. It is disturbing and shocking how she falls so confidently towards him, keeping her body still, for him to catch her just before hitting the floor. I think this piece could represent trust, as she keeps testing her trust for him by seeing if he'd catch her.

Screenshot from Test Shoot 3.


I was inspired by this use of a trust fall when I choreographed a section of dance for my film. She falls to one side as a test to see if she is alone or if there is a member of society to catch her as she falls, mirroring her unstable, sensitive emotions. As the dancer, who represents a member of society, runs forwards to catch her, this is the first sign of She's acceptance into society. She continues to test her trust with this member of society by falling three times before they come face to face. Instead of adding music to this section I decided to keep the real sounds to give it an organic feel and to focus solely on the movement and emotion, but layered it with deep breathes as She falls to reflect She's cautiousness.

(AlexanderFamilyJD, 2014).

I was inspired by the dance duet above by Autumn and Brooke because of their contemporary style and combination of separate synchronised movements and complementary partner work. I felt engaged throughout, meaning they successfully portrayed emotion without relying on a descriptive backdrop; this was similar to my stark black setting, so I felt determined to create a similar effect with my own choreography. When the dancers danced together it automatically gave a sense of their belonging and a relationship, as opposed to when they danced to separate beats with separate movement, creating a very disconnected feeling.

With Autumn and Brooke's inspiration in mind, I then choreographed She and the dancer to do some slow and simple synchronised movement to reflect She cautiously engaging with the society member. The dancer then steps forwards into darkness and She moves to one side to reveal her acceptance. The two do some more synchronised movement and it finishes with the society member taking She's wrist and completing her move, as if she is helping her. This is the beginning of their relationship and trust growing throughout the sequence. I was proud of myself that I choreographed a small story as I had never done this before so it pushed me to achieve something unique. I felt the emotions of acceptance and belonging were communicated through the simplistic movement and gestures; however I didn't feel it portrayed She's liberating feeling of freedom as the dance was very slow and controlled. This is something I will need to consider, possibly through styling or different, possibly faster movement.

I chose to use minimalistic nude and taupe styling for this test shoot so the focus was purely on the movement and emotions. I planned to discuss my styling ideas with Sebastiane after the choreography and mood was decided.


Test Shoot 4

I had asked to see Sebastiane but he said he didn't have time so we agreed he would get back to me if I sent it over email. I felt very panicked that I was not able to see him for a tutorial before my shoot on Saturday and got more stressed when he did not reply for the rest of Wednesday or Thursday. On Thursday I felt very panicked as still didn't know what I was going to shoot on Saturday, so I booked a tutorial with Sharon to discuss her thoughts on this scene. However this wasn't until Friday afternoon so I decided to create a test shoot that combined emotional movement with expressive dance and beauty products to keep the emotion, but also incorporate the fun and excitement of the art. I wanted to postpone my shoot because I was so unclear of what I was doing with the choreography and styling; however my dancer was only free on that day as she lives in London and has many assessments and training sessions to attend so I kept focused to have everything organised by then.


Pina Bausch (Section 20:25 - 23:30)
(ThearoTV, 2013).

Pina Bausch inspired the beginning of this next test shoot from the sequence where a vulnerable looking woman is surrounded by men in suits, touching her and poking her from every direction. I found this sequence uncomfortable to watch because she just stood there, as if she had given up fighting back and let the men touch her as if she was a toy. The men look intimidating because of their authoritative suits, straight faces and confident movements, making it more disturbing to watch. I felt this scene reflected how She feels when people discriminate against her and how she doesn't have the strength or confidence to fight back or stick up for herself. I chose to use a closeup of She's body and only hands entering the frame to conceal the society figures' identities and to reveal the detail in the intruding hands. To transition this first clip into the second I choreographed all the hands to leave the frame and then just one to re-enter in a comforting way to represent a member of society reaching out to her. This fade was very smooth and seamless to reveal the society member's identity. I kept the same styling as in the previous test shoot so, again, all the focus was on the movement and emotion.

Caught in Paint by Rita Blitt and David Parsons
(Blitt, 2009).

In the test shoot before where I experimented with products and perspex plastic I felt slightly restricted when dancing with the perspex as it was surrounded by a black border, limiting my freedom of expressive movement. I was doubting my idea about creating abstract art on perspex until I came across Caught in Paint by Rita Blitt and David Parsons. This video shows Blitt painting beautiful, abstract art onto a 4x8ft transparent surface and then dancers from the Parsons Dance Company creating shapes with their bodies that mirror the dancing lines of Blitt's brush strokes. I envisioned She painting abstract art onto the perspex with beauty products and the dance mirroring her shape movements and shapes. I was also inspired by the way they held their perspex landscape as it gave the dancer's more freedom and space. I decided it would be best for two people to hold the perspex on either side so the top and bottom weren't covered by a border, but instead looked like they were never ending. I experimented with different lighting set ups, from the sides and behind the perspex and edited them together to create a rough draft.

Screenshot from Test Shoot 4

Watch Test Shoot 4 here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CV6dWHnMjaE


Sharon Feedback

I explained to Sharon my film's concept and all the scenes so that she understood the film's background and style. She loved the opening of the scene with the hands touching She's body because she said it communicated that She was under other people's control and the visual was intriguing. She thought the simplistic, neutral tones of both models' styling created a clean canvas to reveal emotion and focus on the movement, rather than being distracted by dominating styling or makeup. I said I was hoping to give the models more extravagant outfits to emphasise their emotion and social status so we discussed how I could shoot the sequences in both outfits and then edit them together to flash the more avant-garde styling throughout. I thought this would be perfect to build the scene to a climax at the end when the white leather dress is fully revealed, reflecting her growing confidence and empowerment to be herself and stand out from the accepting crowd.

I showed her Test Shoot 4 and she said she liked the use of beauty products on the perspex; however after I said Sebastiane thought it was cliche we agreed that it was not necessary to portray She's emotions and it was unclear that the products were beauty products so did not add much depth. This clarified to me that I would not use the beauty products or any other products as I would focus on the emotion of the dance to portray the concept. I felt frustrated that I had continued to experiment with using beauty products because Sebastiane had said that he did not think they worked; I felt I had wasted this time when I could have been working on dance choreography.

Sharon said she thought the choreography in Test Shoot 3 worked in portraying She's emotions; however thought I should experiment with quicker, sharper editing to keep the young audience engaged as they take polished, professional editing for granted. She also said I should film the dance from different angles and closeups to them incorporate together, again to break down the slow movement to hold interest. Sharon also suggested I made the lighting slightly brighter as some of the detail of the styling and movement was lost in the dark shadows; I will discuss using reflectors or a fill light with Harrison to brighten the footage.

She's Look 2 Hair Design

I quickly showed Sharon the styling, makeup and hair for the first and second scene and she was concerned my young target audience would not understand Look 2's hair design with the hair braided onto her face. She suggested wrapping the plaits round the model's neck; however I said I was concerned it would decrease the difficulty as this was the most challenging hair design. We discussed that I could wrap the plaits round the model's neck for the majority of the scene and then add some closeups of the caged hair design to reveal the detail and reinforce she feels trapped and restricted by society's hold. Sharon was also concerned the black dress styling for Look 2 was too complicated and wouldn't necessarily translate to the young audience, so she again suggested having a more simplistic outfit and then having only some edits of her in the more detailed costume for dramatic effect. I will discuss these ideas with Sebastiane in my tutorial with him next week. I will carry out a focus group with people in my target market to gain their perspective of Sharon's concerns and other aspects I am unsure about.


Sebastiane Feedback

Sebastiane loved Test Shoot 3, saying it was a great break through. The email he sent is shown below:
_________________________________________________________________________________

Well ms Mercer,

Yes, yes and again yes. SO much better and a real break through. 

I don’t like the music dance bit; it changes into dance and stops the sensitivity and communication of feeling. I prefer the use of breath sounds and the bits without music are excellent and communicate a subtle sense of tenderness, protection and togetherness. My partner who is a dance movement psychotherapist (DMP) liked it too and mentioned the use of duality: light, dark, old, young, apart and close.

The costume might be something to consider, but you definitely have something, well done.

Well done Becky

Sebastiane
_________________________________________________________________________

I was so excited and relieved that Sebastiane was so positive about my work because I had been so stressed deciding what would work and the shoot was the next day at this point! I understood why he did not like that sections with music because the music became a dominant aspect, possibly drawing less attention to the emotion. I thin the best plan of action would be filming the sequence first and then adding sound effect, like breathing, over the top to enhance the movement. I showed him the styling I wanted to use and he said he thought the green leotard for the society figure placed it too much in a dance context and so suggested using something more reflecting everyday wear or even domestic wear. Sebastiane's partner liked the use of young and old; however my mother was only standing in for my younger dancer. I therefore decided to use the young dancer for the beginning of the scene and then incorporate the older model towards the end to show the acceptance of a range of people in society and how it can make the model feel.

When Sebastiane mentioned that the music would not work as it changes the emotion into dance, I instantly felt guilty that Dan had taken the time to create the piece because I may not even use it. I also felt guilty that I may not end up using one of Sofia's designs as I had originally planned to use the white leather blazer to portray another representation of She; however this new interpretation that the dancer represented society would not work with my intended styling. I kept having to remind myself that the outcome for my project was the priority so if things are no longer suitable then I shouldn't use them just to make other people happy. I understood his concern about the music and so wanted to experiment with either adding more sound effects or removing it completely.

I am excited that I now have a clearer idea of what I am filming tomorrow; however I have a lot to get sorted before then! Like extra styling, a different makeup look for each model and extra choreography!


References:
TALESKI, F., 2013. Pina Bausch The Fall Dance [viewed 24th March 2017]. Available from: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zS8hEj37CrA

ALEXANDERFAMILYJD, 2014. Autumn and Brooke - Beauty from Pain - Self-Choreographed Contemporary Duet [viewed 24th March 2017]. Available from: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ojZczGeAFyM


THEAROTV, 2013. I grandi protagonisti della danza- Pina Bausch [viewed 11th March 2017]. Available from: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dPjX2DEO5iQ&t=11s

BLITT, R., 2009. Caught in Paint [viewed 24th March 2017]. Available from: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4e_C8iqusqQ

Thursday, 23 March 2017

Designing and Practising Society's Makeup, Hair and Styling

After discussing with Sebastiane the importance of contact within the final scene to show society's acceptance of She, I realised I would need to design another look for the dancer. I had initially planned that Louise would represent She so I designed two white outfits that would complement each other; however now that the dancer is going to represent the accepting member of society I need to change the styling to reflect this.

Makeup Design

I wanted the makeup to contrast against She's ethereal, white makeup look; however I still wanted She's look to be more dominant. She initially views society negatively and feels intimidated by them as she feels unfairly judged and discriminated against for not conforming; I therefore wanted to give this makeup look a severe edge, to reflect society's constraining hold.

Mac Etro SS14 Milan Fashion Week
(Bobbi, 2017).
I was inspired by Mac's SS14 makeup look for Etro at Milan Fashion Week as the dark, smokey eyes were softened by the light, dewy skin and natural lip. When this society figure enters She's subconscious, She's negative view of society slowly deteriorates to a feeling of acceptance. I chose to apply a dark khaki eyeshadow on the lid, with a warm brown to blend it out in the crease for a smokey effect. I chose khaki as it mirrors the styling and the rich colour gives a striking, dark look, reflecting She's distress towards society's unfair, viscous actions. However I decided to keep the lower lash line bare as I did not want the eyes to look glamorised or too smouldering. The absence of colour under the eyes opens the eyes and makes them look brighter and more accepting, reflecting She's shifting view of society's intentions.

Makeup Practice




If I were applying a dark eye shadow like this to the eyelids I would do the eyes first and then do the skin makeup so that any fall out from the eyeshadow did not disturb my base; however this makeup will be applied straight after the model's first scene so she will already have her base makeup on. I will therefore use cotton pads or tissue to hold under the eyes to catch the fall out. I kept the skin very dewy for a youthful, fresh look and only added a small amount of product to the eyebrows for a natural look. I applied a medium nude colour to the lips and added lip gloss for a feminine sheen; however I think the lips look too defined and peachy so I will apply a paler nude to put all emphasis on the eyes. The khaki eye shadow blended easily with a neutral brown in the crease and it very similar to the styling, tying the look together. I think my decision to leave the lower lash line bare was successful in opening the model's eyes and giving a more editorial look, rather than a wearable look for the evening.


Hair Design

I took inspiration from the dancer's previous hair design as I thought the taught ponytail would reflect the society member's cold and judging exterior.

(Schafer, 2017).

The dancer/society member's previous look was more dramatic; however I wanted this look to be more subtle to contrast with She's look, but not over shadow it. I therefore decided to not add painted stencilling over the hair, but instead use gel to slick it back to a taught high pony tail. I will use black mesh to wrap around the hair elastic to heighten the hair for a more editorial feel. I have practised a slick ponytail for my dancer's look many times, so I am confident in achieving this hair style. 


Styling

I wanted the styling to be tight and restricting, dark in colour, but not too dominant so it doesn't over power She's white cage dress.
(boohoo, 2017).
The bodysuit has big, detailed shoulders to reflect society's dominating, confident presence. I chose the waved shoulder detail to mirror the society phantom figure's black hood in scene 2 to show a connection between the negatively and more positively viewed members of society. The khaki body is tight on her body with a thick, high neck, making it look restricting and suffocating; however it is very elasticated so my dancer will be able to move freely. I thought a bodysuit would be appropriate as it reveals the model's long, lean legs, giving a clear message of self confidence. In the film's final scenes where the accepting society member is introduced, neutral, earthy tones are used in the styling so I continued this with the khaki colour as it would contrast with She's stark white dress in the same scene. 

I was initially concerned when I realised I would have to change this society's styling because my stylist had already started making the outfit she would have worn. However, because it is similar to She's white leatherette styling in this scene, I will consider She wearing it instead towards the end of the film to show She evolving into different versions of her new, confident self.


References:
BOBBI, M., 2017. Backstage at Etro, MAC SS14 Milan Fashion Week [viewed 23rd March 2017]. Available from: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/95279348340205557/

SCHAFER, S., 2017. Paris Fall 2011 - Issey Miyake [viewed 12th February 2017]. Available from: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/318911217349530498/

BOOHOO, 2017. Rebecca Ruffle ShoulderHigh Neck Bodysuit [viewed 23rd March 2017]. Available from: http://www.boohoo.com/restofworld/tops/bodysuits/icat/bodysuits#esp_cf=
m_colourrational&esp_filter_m_colourrational=khaki&esp_pg=2

Wednesday, 22 March 2017

Developing Final Scene - Test Shoot and Tutorials with Sebastiane and Anna

As Sebastiane previously said he thought using powder paint or any brightly coloured paint was cliche, I decided to use beauty products, like shampoo, moisturiser and shaving foam, for She to create abstract art with her body onto the perspex plastic sheets. This reflects her rebellion against using beauty products in the expected ways and shows her liberation as she escapes through contemporary dance and artwork. I was nervous Sebastiane was going to think using products was too similar to using paint; however the beauty products reflected She's liberation further. I did an experimental test shoot and roughly edited it together to show Sebastiane my vision. I only focused on the movement and art in this test shoot, not the styling or makeup. I stood in for the dancer; however my dancer will be able to do beautiful leaps and extreme back bends etc. to heighten She's freedom. I asked my dad to build a frame and paint it black to conceal the plastic's borders. I think the test shoot was successful; however I was not completely confident when showing it to my teachers as I was still concerned it was cliche. My other concern was the test shoot did not build towards the end which I want, but instead it stayed at one level and become monotonous.



Anna Felton Feedback

I decided to book a tutorial with Anna Felton as Sebastiane could not see me that week because of presentations and I was concerned that the scene still looked slightly cliche. I explained the concept of my film and its target market of young people and creatives and Anna was very enthusiastic about the use of beauty products. She said the concept of rebelling against the norm worked with the model's strong movement rejecting the beauty products to create a fun, expressive scene. She suggested I should experiment with using even more product, so it drips and splatters, and bigger movement to emphasise her liberation as she felt the movement was too controlled in places. I said I was concerned about the styling so Anna suggested I filmed it with the full styling and then just removed pieces I felt were too dominant to create a balance between the styling and expressive paint to make sure the emotion and movement were the most dominant factors.

I felt so relieved that Anna thought this scene would work in portraying my concept as I had less than a week until the shoot and so had to organise everything and make the storyboard. I was excited to start choreographing the movement; however I decided to email my test shoot to Sebastiane to make sure he thought it would work, as he is my mentor.


Sebastiane Feedback

Sebastiane said he was concerned that what I wanted the scene to represent or mean was not what the images were communicating. He also said he didn't think the smearing of products worked and that I needed to look at smaller gestures and movement rather than expressive dance which can look slightly cliche. This was frustrating to hear because Anna had said she thought it worked and suggested I made the movements even bigger with more products. This emphasised to me that art is very subjective and so not everyone will view a scene in the same way; however Sebastiane is my mentor and I feel he has more background knowledge to my film as we have had so many tutorials so I will work with his feedback to create a scene that evokes stronger emotion.

We discussed how I originally wanted to portray her feeling of liberation and rebellion against society; however as this is an educational film it would be more appropriate to highlight to the audience the importance of feeling accepted by society as a unique individual rather than them feeling the need to fight society's expectations. I wanted to portray the need for a tolerant society which embrace everyone's individuality rather than a divided society where people who may feel different feel ostracised and alone.

He suggested I focused more on experimenting with synchronising movement to portray the feeling of acceptance and relationship. I originally wanted the dancer and She to be in different scenes that were then entwined together to reflect how She was losing herself in her subconscious, imagining how it would feel to be accepted; however I think having them in the same scene doing synchronised movement would reflect their growing bond. I think the dancer should represent a member of society that has reached out to She to show the film's audience the importance of accepting everyone's individuality and not shutting them away. I want the scene to reflect She's emotions when feeling accepted and not judged and we discussed the use of contact to show this between the dancer and She. He showed me Pina Bausch's The Fall Dance which represents the growing feeling of trust between two people through simple movement. I am excited to research more into contemporary, avant-garde movement to portray She's emotions.

Tuesday, 21 March 2017

Sofia Fittings with Model

I was delighted to hear Sofia's styling had arrived as I was concerned there would be a problem with delivery and it wouldn't arrive in time for alterations. I was extremely excited and anxious for this fitting because I hadn't seen the outfits in person yet and, even though I had given Sofia my model's measurements, I wasn't sure if they would fit her. 

White Styling



The white leather blazer fit the model perfectly; it gave her an hourglass silhouette, covered her boobs and the shoulders fit comfortably. The padded shoulders and exaggerated collar gave her an empowering structure and the added arm loops gave an avant-garde edge. There was wire inside the loops that Sofia can shape to make them even and smooth so that can be perfected on the shoot.

The white pants were mostly stretchy, fitting round the bum and waist; however the leather strips around the leg holes were far too tight, meaning the model couldn't pull them up. We therefore ripped the leather off so the model could pull them up; however the cut looked unflattering and not as rebellious as I had hoped, so we drew a higher leg hole and then cut it to give a more daring and flattering design. I asked Sofia to add a strip of leather to the outside of the leg holes, on her hips; however this won't be necessary as it won't be seen under the blazer.

Black Styling








We had a few more complications with the black styling as Sofia said her tailor didn't have a mannequin the correct size so she made it fit a smaller model. I didn't understand what the point of me giving my model's measurements were if the tailor didn't use them; however thankfully most of the outfit fit my model. 

The majority of the elastic straps fit tightly round the model; however some of the were loose so Sofia agreed to tighten these on the morning of the shoot. The elastic was secured with a glue gun so when me and Sofia pulled tightly at some of the strips they pinged off. I had hoped these would be more secure so my model could move around without concern, although I think these will hold in place in the shoot as my model doesn't move her lower half too much. Some of the pieces of material on the top part had come loose so they will need to be glued on again. 

The strips of plastic against her pale skin will mirror the strips of hair across the model's face to create a tight caged look. I need to make sure the middle strip goes down the centre of the model's body to make the styling symmetrical. There are tiny sections of red thread showing in the outfit so I will colour those in with black marker to make sure the outfit looks polished. In the first image the shoulders did not fit the model's shape, I'm assuming because the model the tailor used did not have shoulders, so Sofia cut the lower section of the shoulder material to make it drape over the shoulders. The tassels around the neck weren't as tight as I wanted them because they hung loosely; I therefore asked Sofia to turn the top over a couple times to tighten them for a more constraining look. The last alteration I need to be made were the strips of ribbon down the skirt at the back because they pull on strips of elastic to create a hole in the even placing of strips. I asked her to look at this to see if she could move the attachment of the ribbon to a lower strip of elastic so they aren't as pulled down and distorting. I look forward to seeing the styling with these alterations made together with the makeup and hair designs.